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Old 02-14-2007, 10:49 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Year: 1993
Model: GT
Transmission: Manual
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Originally Posted by 8 UR VETTE View Post
That was Marcus,s old car. It was rebuilt now has a custom stereo
and is sporting draglites and shiny new paint.

Nice, you know Marcus. Ive known him for years and i personally had some good times in that vert. I had heard he sold it to Bernie for cheap and Bernie was going to fix it.
It was a beautiful car
I wonder if Bernie is going to sell since he's outta business ?
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Old 02-14-2007, 02:07 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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Year: 1989
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I thought John at Westport rebuilt the car? Formerly Protech.
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Old 02-14-2007, 05:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Why not stick to basics, can't jump from a 105hp car to something with enough to break a T56 and expect to live.
SS
I've seen lots of people, even friends of mine that have done what you just said.

I've had lots of seat time in cars and one truck with enough power to get hurt real bad.....I'm not saying I'm a seasoned funny car driver, but I am very cautious driving anything with more than a few hundred hp. And a lot of people should learn from stupid people's mistakes and NOT go from a Honda to a Ferrari and expect it to perform the same.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:00 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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not to mention one of my best qualities is that I tend to over build things....meaning, if I'm building a car.....I'm gonna start with a bullet proof trans...like I built an 80 Camaro for a friend, first thing I did was drop a Muncie in it....then on to a Currie rear end and Dana 60's.

Ever tried to break a Dana 60? Doesn't happen very often, I've actually only seen it once in a mud truck.

I build motors the same way, start with a rock solid bottom end and work your way up.

I found out quickly building 200,000 KM+ chevy motors....if you build the top end first, the bottom will die damn near instantly.

Point is, OVER BUILD everything, it's ok, despite what your wife says, to spend 4-5000$ for a bullet proof trans, even if you only plan to make 300-400 hp at the wheels. Because eventually, you'll start adding stuff and yer 300-400 becomes 500-600, and we all know there's a world of difference between those numbers.
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Old 02-16-2007, 09:34 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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mods i regret....... fuel injection, should of built it carbed like i'm gonna do now.two motors later.

one i don't regret, tko 600, after blowing two rebuilt t5's in two weeks, i got tired of changing trannys so in went the tko and been problem free since.
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Old 02-17-2007, 02:31 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Year: 1989
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mods i regret....... fuel injection, should of built it carbed like i'm gonna do now.two motors later.

one i don't regret, tko 600, after blowing two rebuilt t5's in two weeks, i got tired of changing trannys so in went the tko and been problem free since.
I hear you cant power shift with them, any truth to that?
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:09 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Other than being MUCH more expensive to tune,maintain and build , why do you like carb for street application?

I can see it for the track, but for street a fuel injected motor is more efficient and a little easier on the ole gas consumption.
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:26 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Year: 1988
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Other than being MUCH more expensive to tune,maintain and build , why do you like carb for street application?

I can see it for the track, but for street a fuel injected motor is more efficient and a little easier on the ole gas consumption.
HUH?!!?!?!?!? Where do you get the idea that carb is MORE expensive than EFI???
Carb is leaps and bounds cheaper than EFI, is always faster when setup correctly, and can get just as good fuel mileage so long as your cam isn't too outrageous. EFI is just user friendly, you have to know how to tune a carb to get the most out of it as it does not self adjust to weather conditions.
EFI cars are, however, better on the street due to the longer runner intakes on most typical setups. This allows for more low end torque, and makes part throttle driving and driveability more enjoyable.
My current car is going to be carb'd, setup for blow through with two turbos pushing air through it.
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:34 PM   #29 (permalink)
 
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You're not reading that right.

And it probably wasn't worded properly, I meant that FI is much more expensive to tune, maintain and build, not the carb motor.
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:47 PM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Nah, I read that right..... it's definitely the way it was worded. And EFI isn't more expensive to maintain, the only parts I've seen fail (on more than one occasion) on any EFI setup was the fuel pump which happens to carb cars too and the rubber o rings on the injectors. As for tuning, people have been running very very modified set ups with stock untouched MAF systems for years.... this whole "tuning" hoopla recently started over the last 3-4 years. Ford EEC-IV MAF has been around for 17 years! I've run supercharged, turbocharged and nitroused cars with factory computers and no tune with great success. The only thing thats more expensive is the hard parts, intakes, injectors, MAF sensors, fuel rails.... whereas with a carb car an intake is peanuts and a carb can be easily jetted to compensate for many upgrades/modifications.
I would never pay anyone to "tune" my car for me, if I wanted that kind of adjustability I'd buy a standalone setup and learn to set it up myself. "Tuning" is not needed unless you want optimum power.... the factory computer is plenty safe as is and is very very smart. Why on earth people pay someone to give them a "safe tune" is beyond me, if your motor pings back down the timing or run higher octane fuel..... Wow this turned out to be a long reply.
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